Stories & Field Notes

Stories from Hakone and beyond - exploring trails, traditions, communities, and the ideas that shape the places we travel through.

Latest Stories

The cedar-lined Old Tokaido Trail in Hakone
Hakone Heritage
May 11, 2026

The Old Tokaido Trail in Hakone

Walk the stone-paved Old Tokaido through Hakone — the historic road that once linked Edo and Kyoto, past cedar avenues, the Hakone Checkpoint, and a 400-year-old teahouse.

Azaleas in bloom at Onshi Hakone Park with Lake Ashi and snow-capped Mount Fuji beyond
Hakone Heritage
June 16, 2026

The Onshi Hakone Park

The former summer villa of Japan’s Imperial family, now a quiet lakeside park with manicured gardens, historic architecture, and some of Hakone’s finest views.

The thatched roof of Amasake Chaya, a 400-year-old teahouse on the Old Tokaido in Hakone
Hakone Heritage
May 31, 2026

Amasake Chaya

The last thatched teahouse on the Old Tokaido, run by the same family for 400 years. Rest with a bowl of warm amazake and toasted chikara-mochi, just as travelers did in the Edo period.

The red torii gate of Hakone Shrine standing on the water of Lake Ashi
Hakone Heritage
May 11, 2026

History of Hakone Shrine

The 1,200-year-old shrine on the shores of Lake Ashi, famed for its red torii gate on the water. A place of legend, samurai patronage, and a nine-headed dragon.